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  Growing
up in Tucson, I was always fascinated by the history of the settlement
that is fondly called the Old Pueblo. It includes stone-age peoples,
early native inhabitants, Spanish explorers, padres and their missions.
Apache raids, stone churches - and Mexican restaurants like our
El Charro.
El
Charro is Tucson
The El Charro story began with my great-grandfather, Jules Flin,
a stocky young Frenchman and master stones man. Shortly after arriving
in Tucson in the 1860's, Monsieur Flin found himself toiling with
chisel and hammer under ceaseless desert sun. he had been hired
to create the stone façade for Tucson's San Augustine Church. (The
façade still exists - now it graces the entrance of the Arizona
Historical Society in Tucson.)
It
was Flin's daughter, Monica, who began El Charro Café. Jules married
Carlota Brunet, also of French stock, in 1884. They spoke French
throughout their lives, bringing up eight bilingual, then trilingual,
children: Monica, Louise, Francisca, Lydia, Julio, Carlos, Stephano
and Agustin.
Court
Street Location
In the late 1890's, Flin built a sturdy home on Court Street, part
of the exclusive residential section of Tucson known as Snob Hollow.
Snob Hollow lay just outside the area that had encompassed the early
Spanish presidio. The house was willed to Monica and is the fourth
and present site of El Charro Café. It is designated Site Number
14 in El Presidio District on the National Register of Historic
Places. The high-ceilinged house is made of the black volcanic basalt
rock that characterized most of Flin's buildings. He quarried the
rock from his claim at the foot of "A" Mountain, just west of downtown.
Monica
'El hambre hace salir al lobo de la cueva.'
(Hunger makes the wolf leave his cave.)
My great-aunt, Monica Flin,
remembered this as one of her father's favorite sayings. The culinary
skills she learned in childhood were to afford her a high-profile
life as one of Tucson's first businesswomen from the day she opened
El Charro Café in 1922. As a young woman, Monica had married and
lived in Mexico. When her second husband died, she returned home
to Tucson. Borrowing money from a sister, she opened a narrow, one-room
restaurant and named in El Charro Café, after the romantic "gentlemen
horsemen" known as los charros of Mexico.
"No
Service for Less Than 10 Cents"
In those early days, Monica worked on short-term credit. Very short-term.
When a customer arrived, she would dash out the back door and cajole
the neighboring Chinese grocer into giving her the provisions she
needed. Then she would rush back to her kitchen, prepare the meal,
serve it, collect the customer's money and return to the grocer
to pay her bill. Somewhere there must have been a profit. Early
menus from the 1920s show combination plates costing fifteen cents
and a line that reads, "No service for less than 10 cents."
After
a few years, Monica moved her operation to Scott Street, into the
graceful Temple of Music and Art (now the home of the Arizona Theatre
Company), and expanded it. But the Depression was hard on El Charro
and most Tucson businesses.
Faced
with a financial dilemma, Monica again turned to family. Her sister
Francisca had a large building on West Broadway, the main street
at the time, where she and her husband operated a drug store. One
part was rented to a Chinese merchant, but other quarters were vacant
and perfect for the new El Charro.
In
1968, Monica moved El Charro to the old family home on Court Street
she had inherited, where it stands today. She brought with her the
curios, tables and chairs, Mexican picture calendars, murals and
saints' pictures (which make up most of our décor today) and most
of her employees. She also brought along her father's rifles, which
he had used to protect his family against Apaches, and mounted them
above the new entrance.
By
the early 1970s, Monica's health began to decline. In 1972, Monica
let my mother Zarina, take over. Then my husband, Ray, and I stepped
in. We felt the old restaurant could be made into a more modern
and comfortable establishment. So the work began. Thus, El Charro
is the oldest restaurant in the territory under continuous family
ownership.
Now,
with expansion to an East Broadway location and to the airport,
our restaurants have undergone a new era of growth. Our catering
business, Cocina Charro is proud to offer "Carlotta's Cocina," cooking
classes with me under Monica's divine guidance. Chonita Foods, our
newest project, offers wholesale foods nationally. One of Monica's
favorite saying was, "Whatever the meal, whatever the season, every
meal at El Charro is served with color, music and , whenever possible,
good company." It is a tradition that is still carried on at El
Charro today.
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